Florida part 3...still on the dock

Here we are still on the dock at the New River Marina
Fort Lauderdale, on Riverwalk, one of the most picturesque
spots in the area.

Now we have dock fever. Three weeks longer than we intended,
seven weeks since we arrived. But it’s been an eventful time…

On Sunday 17th January a day of high winds and strong current on the New River saw the Jungle Queen crash and scrape down the side of a luxury yacht.

I was taking photos of the boys playing on the dock when I saw the large tourist boat coming towards us. Seraphim is on the curve into the river bend. The Jungle Queen misjudged the wind and current, just missed us, lost it on the bend and crashed down the side of the next yacht. Massive fenders burst. The Jungle Queen then crunched a smaller cruising yacht before pushing off from it and heading down river. I renamed her the “Bungle Queen“. Even ho hummed new lyrics to Abba’s Dancing Queen, for all of a minute. “Bungle Queen crashing its way down New River, Watch that Queen, smash that boat flying around the bend ….”

Another out of the ordinary experience fell on a night late in December as we arrived home with two sleeping children. The police were out in force with a helicopter, boats and cars, and were joined by the Coastguard launch who caused a massive wake.  All hunting a “dead guy”. Ooo’rah. Just what I wanted for a late bed time - the noise of a helicopter, glaring floodlights and Seraphim bouncing on the dock. A fight between two hobos had gone bad. One flipped the other over a bridge further up stream and the swift current disposed of him.

Lets back up to December 26th when we had a Wonderful Life moment. A fire hydrant. An empty pavement, and a young man kneeling, holding a girl’s ring finger. Can only mean one thing. “He’s proposing”, I squealed. John spun the car and we caught up  just outside the Church by the Sea. Yes, Will had indeed just proposed to Tiffany.  I asked why there, on the pavement? Will shrugged colouring from pink to puce. The “joy-full” couple were not surprisingly bemused by these eccentric Brits curious about spontaneous gestures which would change their lives. We wish them well.

Boxing Day was a day to hit the sales in the Malls. Fort Lauderdale’s upmarket Galleria Mall with Macys and Neiman Marcus, (otherwise known as Needless Mark Up) was a far more pleasant experience than the heaving scrum we encountered at Sawrgrass Mills, designer discount shops.

Excursions with Eileen, John’s mother visiting during the Holidays, included our beach playground near Eileen‘s hotel, the playground at the Church by the sea, Miami South Beach and the Miami Sea Aquarium with an orca, dolphins, manatees, a pirate playground and a fair ground. The Ferris wheel gave an excellent view of downtown Miami..

After Eileen returned to the UK we returned from our time out to the life of fixing Seraphim, and what a lot there is to do. The cockpit tent was taken off making us feel like a yacht again, not a caravan.
Part of the reason the Seraphims are burning savings on the dock is that another and another and another thing needs fixing, also, it’s easy. The tenacious rootlets start growing as the lines are tied to the dock.  No in and out of dinghy, just onto the dock. No life jackets on and off.  No bags of rubbish, bags of stuff, in and out of the dinghy, just into a rubbish bin onshore. Electricity and easy access is conducive to landlubberly-ness.  Also, although the outside temperatures were cold in mid January, the water was 70 degrees. It is warmer up the river because it is shallow and not open to the ocean.

Balancing boat maintenance, yacht broking, writing articles, oh, and everyday domestics including children and school is a real stretch for us. If the children are more naughty than usual we threaten them with “Dockwise home”.  The most workable childcare arrangement is when John and I  take turns, as at home. However, 24/7 childcare for over a year is wearing.

Fortunately we have some excellent playgrounds nearby  plus the Museum of Science and Discovery which after 5 hours of non-stop play is reasonable at $29 for an adult and two children. I also saw the spectacular James Cameron blockbuster, “Avatar” at the AutoNation IMAX cinema next to the Museum. On the other end of the cinematic scale was the family outing to “Alvin and the Chipmunks”  at the fifteen screen drive In.

On a literally freezing Saturday casting around for warm child friendly fun, John headed for the local movie house and Alvin, again. The boys literally danced in the aisles. (We avoid attractions and museums at weekends, too full, too mad.) The Riverfront flea pit rescued us again with “The Tooth Fairy“.

Whilst John had a day of WIFI and electronic nitty gritty, the excellent Miami Children’s Museum and I, entertained the boys. $36, £12 each was steep but you pays-for what-you-gets, and six hours of top quality “play”, was worth it.  Miami and Port Discovery in Baltimore come joint first out of ten for children’s museums on the US east coast. In our order of preference: Wilmington North Carolina,  Fort Lauderdale (2 visits) Charleston, Portsmouth, Manhattan, Annapolis and South Myrtle Beach.
Young At Art, in Davie near Fort Lauderdale, provided a palate (sic) of arts and crafts for children.


It’s not just the comfortable dock, it’s the city. Marina Mile provides all kind of facilities such as West Marine, the vast Sailorman New and Used Marine Store, WIFI experts, Diesel experts, and all kinds of experts to do with all kinds of boats. 
Then there are the cinemas, shopping malls, Starbucks and Publix all in the area. All things lovely but lubberly. Enough already, it was time to get off the dock.

 Returning the hire car is the best way to re-focus on setting off. We have returned four hire cars so far. I have provisioned for the Bahamas six times, so far.
Some hours when John is up to his elbows in grease, oil and/or ugly bilge gunge I watch the boys play fire trucks or trains or just let off steam, on the dock. Ditto, if John is working on “topsides“, (the deck), they play beside him, on the dock. Several locals walking their dogs or toddlers stop to chat “forcing” John to take a break.

And we were ready to go. When yet another !?!!ing thing needed fixing.

31st January. And another, and another. Seven false starts.

Re-commissioning  the watermaker involved waiting for a new part to be couriered from Trinidad. It arrived. It broke. John searched out another in Marina Mile.
Then it was the loo pump out system which five years ago, we now discovered, had been installed back to front, and required new parts and contortionist tricks by John.
The wind generator and the stereo both died on the same day. It was not just a matter of buying a new wind generator. John checked three times with the sales guy that the new generator would fit on our existing pole. Yes, three times he said it would. No, after wasting an evening try to make it fit it did not. A great deal of time (and hire car costs) is wasted in such buy, fit, not fit, return exercises.

And whilst John was extending our US Cruising Permit the customs officer pointed out that the Ship’s Register Certificate for Seraphim is up in May.  Phone calls and Fedex to the Register of Ships in the UK, and a wait. It did not help that the receptionist at the Registry of Ships left the $55 Fedex envelope gathering dust when it arrived in UK.

I wonder if we’ll ever ever get off this dock. But, as ever with these times of stress and challenge an angel is sent. This time in the form of Jennifer who lives in the huge apartment block next to the boat. Jennifer used to live on a boat and understands our travails in the valley of boat maintenance, and children, and etc ….. So she, her washing machine, top floor swimming pool and games with her little boy Andrew and husband Paul have saved us. That and the odd outing such as the deafening ride on an airboat over the Everglades at the Sawgrass Recreation Area. It is home to various creatures such as black panthers, wolves, a cougar and alligators.

A trip down memory lane took us to lunch at the Seawatch in Lauderdale on Sea, a fine restaurant where John had dined with his father seventeen years ago. After an outstanding seafood lunch the boys played on the beach away from the water line which was littered with Portuguese Men of War.

 The Result of the Week was found in the Annual Nautical Flea Market (think a small Beaulieu Boat Jumble) in the form of a fold up bicycle to replace one of ours which had given up to rust.
So, we wait for the return of our Ships Register Certificate, say goodbye to our wedding present wind generator, fit the second new wind generator and see what next.

Florida part 2

Fort Lauderdale, the Venice of America where waterways are lined with amazing residences. Here is a look back at our time there in December.

12th December.










Las Olas Marina mooring field. Seraphim was in prime position for the Winterfest Boat parade. Over one hundred brightly lit and loudly blaring competitors of all sizes sailed right on past in front of us. It was magnificent.

An extra treat was catching up with Pat and Walt on Centime with whom we sailed  from the Bahamas to Puerto Rico in Winter 04 when I was newly pregnant with Jack.

On Sunday 13th December Seraphim headed along the ICW and up the New River to a marina. I was singing “Electricidad”, my version of the Spanish song, “Felice Navidad” in anticipation at being able to plug into a dock for a while.

The New River Marina was also the start point of the Winterfest parade. Half dressed and unlit Winterfest boats headed down river, as we headed up. Matt, the dockmaster gave us an excellent spot alongside the re-developed Riverwalk, next to a park. It was to be our home for two weeks, which has stretched to five.

December 14th

I would never have guessed it was a special day if James had not bounced on my head before dawn singing “Birthday”. Later I was awoken from a doze in with champagne, yummies, and “Happy Birthday” sung by my boys.  (It hardly seemed a year since Rastafarian Adrian accompanied by his steel drum sang on the dock in St Lucia.) A day full of treats ensued including brunch at the Floridian Restaurant on Las Olas Boulevard, a Fort Lauderdale tradition. Highly Recommend.

Eileen, John’s mother, visited for two weeks over Christmas staying in a Best Western Oceanside Inn tucked between the Harbor Beach Marriott and Sheraton. Three minutes to the beach it was great value in a top location.

An explore by car through Rio Vista (River View) wowed us. The waterfront homes are as dazzling on the land facing side.

On Christmas Eve we attended the family Service at the Church by the Sea  which included a heart warming Nativity Play. I was intrigued that the Service sheet  announced who had sponsored the Poinsettias. It was the most fashionable congregation we’d come across. Supper was sorted by Tokyo Sushi, a Rodriguez celebration tradition (e.g. our arrival in the USA in May and my Birthday dinner).

On Christmas day after a present opening frenzy in Eileen‘s room, Christmas lunch on Seraphim was rounded off with a cruise of the ICW Christmas lights, aboard “Tropical Adventures“, a family run tourist boat. Father Christmas had first given us a flyer whilst we walked down Las Olas Boulevard admiring the Christmas decorations.

Florida part three comes up soon. Marriage proposal on the pavement, drive ins, dive ins, and police helicopters at bedtime….

Florida part one

Greetings from an extra-ordinary cold Fort Lauderdale. Avocado, strawberry and citrus farmers of central Florida are distraught. Me too, fresh, fresh, fresh strawberries we feasted on last week were the best ever. This week the crop froze.

But, for now, back to early December in Vero Beach, Florida. The Gods read my smug blog - “waterproofs away”, and cracked their cheeks. Torrential winds and rain with the spin of tornado warnings. The inclement conditions forced us to dig deep under the pilot berth (a six foot by two foot sloping “garage“) and drag out the cockpit tent. Wintering in Gibraltar (05) and Palma (07) it provided an extra, upstairs room, an excellent anti claustrophobic device.

Vero Beach’s nickname is Velcro Beach. Cruisers get stuck there. During the week, free buses provide transport to Publix, (my favourite supermarket), West Marine, (chandlery), Pocahontas Playground (9/10) and pretty much anything else. The mooring price includes showers and laundry. The place was literally packed to the rafters, arf! Arf!, boats were rafting two or three abreast on buoys. A charming couple thankfully experienced with Grandchildren rafted onto us. We eyed their immaculate craft remembering pre-children chic.

In Vero we spent time with our friend Greg Von Zeilinski whom we originally met in Solomon’s island (Maryland) during Hurricane Isabel in September 03. (See archives, Hurricane Isabel on our main website here). Greg had been kind enough to let us use his address for mail. It is so exciting collecting post. Genuine jumping up and down, excitement. Even in this email centric age, cards and presents from home make a big difference to Birthdays and Christmas. I immediately hid large parcels in the pilot berth, (“garage”), making a mental note from whence I should exhume them on Christmas Eve. Curious and determined small hands can discover even the deepest crannies. (It worse than John and chocolate!) Vero Beach Community put on a Christmas Parade. The boys soon learnt that waving their flags manically attracted more candy canes.

Greg a vicar who cares for his elderly parents, ferried us everywhere and gave his expert assistance helping John fixing the stern gland. Interestingly, Moonshine’s stern gland gave up on the ICW as well.

With 11th December, the date for our arrival at New River Municipal Marina on the horizon, we un-stuck from Vero and headed south. At our new gentle, stopping for playgrounds pace it would take 4 days to cover the 163 miles. (Pushing hard we could do it in 2 ½). On the first day south of Jensen Bridge we stopped at a BTN (Better Than Nothing) playground on the pier under the bridge. We have learnt from bitter experience that the children have to be run out once a day.

From Hobe Sound to Jupiter, Lake Worth and West Palm Beach the homes become more palatial and surreal. All realms of taste, or not, are catered for. The most overt display of wealth is a mansion one block back from the water, with the precious waterside plot given over to an immaculate lawn. Thousands of dollars of real estate for serfs and turf, with fountains with running water like in ancient Rome.

The picturesque anchorage beside the ICW in Lantana had a playground. Time was against us. Fifteen bridges from Lantana to Fort Lauderdale. Most sail in the ocean to avoid waiting for bridges. John and I think this is one of the most spectacular parts of the ICW.

The pressure cranked up when with five bridges to go, and the afternoon waning, the Atlantic Boulevard bridge broke down. Whilst waiting for the electrician to fix the bridge and free the waterway we tied up to a bar with a dock, or dock with a bar, depending on your priorities. The boys swam in the bar pool. Finally the electrician fixed the bridge. The barmaid cursed. Half the bridge opened. Better than nothing. Powering ahead of other yachts, charging for bridge openings, we made it to Las Olas (The Waves) Marina mooring buoys field in time to secure one of the last buoys.

Happy Christmas

Fort Lauderdale Christmas Boat Parade

1000 miles south. Arghh!

The blog has not been updated recently as our four week, 1000 mile journey south with children has been a tiring experience. But now we are in Florida and can slow down, here is a review of the last month.

Travelling by car through the Fall from the Thousand Islands in Canada south to the Chesapeake Bay we were awed by the golds, reds and oranges of the autumn.
Back on Seraphim in Pleasure Cove Marina, Bodkin Creek near Baltimore we experienced an unexpected series of gear failures. Travis, the Dockmaster sympathised, “The hits keep coming.” Without Travis and Geoff (the boat yard manager’s) help and kindnesses I think we would have given up.













After ten days of all kinds of yacht work including the main sail re-re-re mended and the bottom anti-fouled, (plus a re-newed passport for Jack,) we set off on a three day spin from the north of the Chesapeake Bay to the south, via Deltaville, where we bought charts for the Pacific from British yacht Foxglove. For months we have been chewing the debate on whether to go through the Panama Canal, or not.

Hyperthermia and Hot Water Bottles.

Next a brief stop at Norfolk to visit friends our Ocean Cruising Club “parents” Greta and Gary, and new friends Ronnie and Frank. Four other Ocean Cruising Boats were on the dock, all going our way. The cold drove us on fast through Great Bridge to Buck Island, from Virginia into North Carolina and Albemarle Sound into Alligator River.

Most of the first two weeks John spent on the verge of hyperthermia. Marty, a pilot friend complained of the atrocious weather he had endured running south, nevertheless, his email concluded that the next day it had improved, sunny and clear, at 37,000 feet.

Heading back down the route we had come up in May and June, we motored with a fleet of over twenty boats across Albemarle Sound, with the odd optimistic sail up in Pamlico Sound.

In 03 we had spent weeks in Belhaven fixing Moonshine in Axon’s boatyard where we’d met Larry and Jean. Larry had just retired from a high profile Government position. Also, six years ago Rob’s Marina was an abandoned, run down shell where we sheltered during a storm. Now it’s condominiums hoping they’ll sell before the first paint peels. In June this year we had missed Belhaven, In early November, with time and tide against us, I insisted we stop to see Larry and Jean again. Skipper was grumpy. This half day stop meant a re-work of his meticulous tide and passage plan for the next three days. His mood was dispelled when Larry and Jean treated us to a picnic lunch, after which Larry drove us to a supermarket. Supermarkets and laundries on the ICW can be a challenge, so we were grateful. (The Museum in Beaufort, NC no longer offers a free car for two hours to cruisers. Few marinas now have courtesy cars because of the insurance.)

Larry’s good deeds were rewarded by the boys locking him out of his car which was parked in the Pungo District Hospital car park. Larry was up against the clock, students would be filling his lecture hall in one hour. John dinghy-ed Larry back to his water front home. Meanwhile, I ran to the Hospital Emergency Room . James was hunting through piles of shopping. In quick succession, a fire ant stung his wrist, and then a wasp had stung his neck. Ice and pain-killed, he was fine but it rattled me. Clambering and stunts on the yacht, we are alert to the dangerous, and contain them, but the sundry perils of land lubber life are limitless. A few days later John nearly rattled when James chewed through the sacred DVD power cable (which luckily fused, phew!) And the other notch in James incident belt? John had to unbolt the companion way ladder to release James’ trapped leg …well, maybe we’re not so savvy about all yacht japes.













Blackbeard’s Backyard













Jack was 5years old on 7th November and James 3 on 15th. On Jack’s Birthday the Seraphim crew set off on a Treasure Hunt with Captain Manley. He and the boys were in full regalia. Captain Manley conducts three hunts a day in the summer, but on this November afternoon we had him exclusively.


















The boys armed with detailed, and historically researched treasure maps were led by Manley 40 steps north, and 21 south, (90 Jack steps) to discover numerous clues such as a noose, an arrow, a mallet, a logbook, and finally a large X in the sand under which they dug for … a chest with treasures.











Double dibs, Manley entertained Mummy and Daddy with his extensive knowledge of Edward Teach, Anne Bonny et al. Highly recommend.










And the treats played on. Three days after Jack’s Hunt we were holed up in South Habour Village Marina, North Carolina sheltering from Tropical Storm Ida which thankfully stormed north of us to Norfolk. It was reported as a “perfect storm“, clashing with another system.













A very wet playtime came together with the location, two children’s museums. Just north of us the excellent Wilmington Children’s Museum, and south the not so special Myrtle Beach Children Museum. Outstanding hamburgers and chocolate brownie sundae at Fuddruckers made up for the underwhelming museum.

Planes Trains and Fire Truck













As requested, (insisted) for their Birthdays Jack had a chocolate airplane with chocolate icing, and James a yellow cake (orange flavour) fire truck with yellow icing. Made by me, decorated by the skipper, undiscovered talent, don’t you think? A new Melissa and Doug train set and Playmobil kits kept them engrossed for miles, and miles. With no space and ambitious young train drivers John and I have to be highly inventive train track creators. Toys are best when they come in big boxes, but pack into a small space, such as train tracks, DVDs and the Play Mobil airplane and submarine.

On we motored to Barefoot Landing, Charleston, Fenwick Island and Beaufort pronounced Bewfort in South Carolina. Both towns were named in the early 1700s after the same aristo, Henry Somerset, Duke of Beaufort.

“Where Ever You’re Going, I’m Going Your Way”

The100th Anniversary of lyricist/sing Johnny Mercer’s death saw us by passing Georgia and “Moon River”, the first dance at our Wedding. We sailed past Georgia overnight - out of the Beaufort SC inlet and in at the St Johns, down to St Augustine.

Accentuate The Positive Eliminate the Negative

Was one of Mercer’s most popular songs. We had to hold that mind in the cold, damp grey days when the engine noise hour after hour, and children’s noise hour after hour became wearing and caused war-ing. Cooped up because it was too cold and wet for them to play on deck, the cabin seems to shrink by the hour.

Survey of the Playgrounds of the East USA, (specialising in swings and slides)


Southern Spain, the Caribbean, north east America, and now the south east. Nil points to Beaufort NC but bonus points to Beaufort SC’s ICW-side playground which was highly inventive and five minutes from the anchorage.

Whereas on our first trip we could sit and relax taking in the breathtaking marshlands and winding rivers of Georgia, not so with children. Playgrounds became our focus.


Florida. Yeaha!

After three days on the boat, the boys were bouncing off the decks. Hence a half hour stop at New Smyrna, on a dock alongside an excellent castle playground made from wood, and of course being near NASCAR town Daytona, tyres. A whistle stop to vent steam.












And on south to Titusville where the playground was above average, but the players less so.

Next.

If not quite our rainbows end, it was a good stop. Near Cocoa Village Marina there is a quaint area of shops including a vast hardware shop (Travis and Co.) and a park with a playground. Who needs more?













The village was decorated for the Christmas Tree Lighting and Space Coast Boat Parade - elf houses, ice rink and all the trimmings.

What an amazing day. “Our” space shuttle, Atlantis, flew over in the morning. In the afternoon a bouncy castle and fun slide appeared in the park. During the evening power boats turned into glittering beauties. Bands played. Choirs sang. The boys roasted marshmallows for Smoors over a bonfire. AND Father Christmas lit the tree before visiting the playground. (See previous Thanksgiving and Sonic Boom, blog entry.)

The sun is shining. The temperature is rising. The foul weather gear is packed away. Shorts are replacing jeans. Seraphim is moored in Vero Beach , then we are taking a berth in Fort Lauderdale, whilst John’s mother joins us for Christmas.

In the New Year? The Abacos in the northern Bahamas and maybe Cuba in February, but who knows, “there’s such a lot of world to see“.

Sonic Booms and Thanksgiving Gifts

Photo credit NASA


9.40am (EST) we heard the sonic boom from space shuttle Atlantis as it flew over the space coast to land in the Kennedy Space Centre. Atlantis, "our" shuttle which we saw take off on a previous mission in May. Although a small dot speeding across the clear blue sky, it was thrilling.


We had taken a berth in Cocoa Village Marina, near Cape Canaveral, because of bad weather, an epic laundry load and Thanksgiving shopping at Publix (my favourite supermarket.) However, we could only afford one night.










As we watched Atlantis, enthralled, Cheryl who works at the marina waited on the dock with a message, a gift from berth holder John Wilson. Concerned that it was too cold to be on the hook, he paid for an extra night for us so we could watch the Christmas Boat Parade in comfort. This extra night was matched by the marina, two extra nights for free. Thanksgiving gifts and an indulgent treat which makes all the difference. John and I were deeply touched by such unexpected generosity. It brought a tear to my eye.

Heading South down the ICW

We are heading south after returning to Seraphim in the Chesapeake.

It's been a gruelling trip with lots of bad weather and numerous repairs but the excellent staff at the Pleasure Cove Marina near Baltimore kept us going. Read our post about them on YBW here.











Currently we are in the Cape Fear area motoring down the ICW.










...coming soon Chesapeake to the Carolinas and the boy's birthdays.